The waiter moves quickly through the crowd, balancing a round metal tray that glitters in the sunlight. On it, tulip-shaped glasses clink against each other, all filled with deep red tea, hot enough to fog the glass. It could be a ferry crossing the Bosphorus, a teahouse in Anatolia, or a bazaar in Istanbul, to sip a glass of çay is folded into the rhythm of Turkish life itself.